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Toyota Tacoma Brake Pads Installation Instructions

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The front Brake Pads on a Toyota Tacoma will ultimately wear down. When you have the correct quantity of instruments and tenacity, you may set up the entrance brake pads and save your self an expensive labor cost from your native service station. An OEM pad from Toyota or a premium high quality aftermarket Brake Pad set is beneficial, maintaining in mind that you just get what you pay for. Tacomas have a quad piston set up inside the calipers and will burn via an inexpensive set of pads reasonably quickly.

Toyota Tacoma Brake Pads Installation Instructions

1. Park the truck on a stage surface and place in gear or park. Flip the ignition key on one click on to unlock the steering wheel. Apply the parking brake.
2. Place the wheel chocks in entrance and rear of one of the rear tires.
3. Crack free the lug nuts on both entrance tires utilizing the 1/2-inch drive breaking bar and a deep 1/2-inch drive 21 millimeter socket. Don’t remove. Simply crack them loose.
4. Lift one facet of the truck with the ground jack and place a jack stand beneath the decrease management arm and repeat the procedure for the other side. It will elevate the entrance axle with the steering wheel unlocked so you possibly can manipulate the position of the wheel for proper angles and dealing area when needed.
5. Remove lug nuts and take the tires off.
6. Flip the wheel so the caliper is extended previous the wheel well.
7. Take away the locking pin/wire on the outside of the caliper. This pin simply pops out, however you may want to make use of a set of channel locks or pliers to persuade it. Attempt to not injury it if the substitute pads didn’t come with new hardware.
8. Utilizing a small to medium punch and hammer, faucet on flat aspect of the pad upper holding pin. This may be probably the most difficult facet of this job, subsequent to squeezing in the 4 pistons of the caliper. This task could take some time and in case your replacement pads did not include a brand new set of pins, it’s important not to injury these or mushroom the sting of the pin in the tapping process. The best method to work this is to faucet and get it to maneuver just a bit bit after which faucet it back into place and faucet it out a bit more and tap it back into place. Every time it strikes it would clear off slightly little bit of rust and corrosion. If these pins do not transfer you could possibly attempt to grab onto them from the outside of the caliper with channel locks and switch them. If they arrive out, proceed the same process for the underside holding pin. It is recommended that if you’re reusing these pins to clean them off thoroughly with a wire brush wheel on a bench grinder.
9. Remove caliber bolts with three/eight-inch drive ratchet and 14-millimeter 3/8-inch drive socket. Utilizing a medium angle pry bar, pry off the highest after which the bottom of the caliper. Don’t let it hold from the brake hose. The pads will fall out, or could need to be tapped out gently and rest the caliper on top of the upper control arm.
10. Squeeze the pistons of the caliper in utilizing an old pad as a floor to rest the drive of the C-clamp with. This is going to be the following most challenging job of this job. The Tacomas have four pistons, two on either side, and when you squeeze in a single facet, the opposite side desires to bulge out. Squeeze one side all the way in and then the other. You will have to return once more to the other facet again, but in the end, diligence pays off. One other widespread facet effect of Tacomas is a frozen piston on the caliper. In the event you discover you can not convince the pistons to squeeze in below duress, this can be indicative of why the pads wore down, and it’s possible you’ll want to exchange the caliper. In the event that they press in high-quality, continue on.
11. Apply a liberal coat of anti-seize or brake lubricant to the holding pins. Place the pads into the caliper and lock them in with the holding pins. You’ll have to thread them into the caliper with the pins in the identical place by which they they got here out: the inboard pad first with the backing plate dealing with the inside of the wheel well, thread the upper pin, then place the outboard pad dealing with inwards and thread the holding pin by that. The higher holding pin will maintain the pads in place and you can thread the bottom holding pin in a bit more easily. Spread the pads aside by hand so you’ll be able to fit the caliper now loaded with pads over the rotor. Don’t force. If it does not fit, the pistons of the caliper are not in far sufficient and you will have to go back to the C-clamp procedure until you are successful.
12. Reinsert and tighten caliper bolts with the three/eight-inch drive ratchet and 14-millimeter socket.
13. Reinsert locking pin/wire into the holes of the holding pins. You made want the pliers or channel locks to manipulate the pins in an effort to align the small holes for the clip wire.
14. Place wheel on and tighten lug nuts as tight as you may get them with wheel elevated.
15. Repeat Brake Pad alternative steps for the opposite side.
16. Raise car sufficient to extract the jack stands after which torque the lug nuts to 80 foot kilos using the adjustable torque wrench and the half-inch drive 21-millimeter socket in an alternating fashion.
17. Pump the brake pedal contained in the truck to purge the hydraulic pistons of the calipers again out. Pump until the pedal feels normal. Release the parking brake.
18. Pop the hood open and check the level of brake fluid in the grasp cylinder. You may want to adjust it.
19. Remove the wheel chocks and take a look at drive.


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